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Message started by William_Thompson on Dec 4th, 2004 at 12:04pm

Title: drilling a tuner
Post by William_Thompson on Dec 4th, 2004 at 12:04pm
??? What is the hardness of a SG318 Gotoh tuner post?
If I prick punch to start, can I drill another hole closer to the uke?  As is, it looks like lightning rods or short wave towers!

Title: Re: drilling a tuner
Post by ukeman on Dec 7th, 2004 at 1:32pm
aloha william:

ok ifn I underestand you correctly, me thinks you are trying to replace existing friction tuners to Gotoh mini machined wonders! Ergo you need either a 10 mm drill bit or a 3/8th inch bit with a hole reamer handy. Best and most accurate way is to fill in existing tuner hole with a dowel...remeasure from the edge of your headstock and in 7/16th of an inch and punch a starter hole with an awl....mark all the new holes the same way  7/16" from the headstock edge toward the inside of the headstock. Masking tape where the holes will come out on the backside of your headstock..will help lessen tearout as you drill the new holes. Place uke on a small block headstock faceside up and drill your new holes making sure the back surface of the headstock remains flat on your drilling block. You should be good and ready to go!

Method 2   add a small 1/16th thick headstock veneer over the existing headstock and shape to current headstock shape...remark new hole locations and likewise drill away with a 10mm bit or 3/8" bit. Make sure the end of the headstock that will seat nut is perpendicular to nut and parallel to nut slot..in other words the end of the headstock veneer is angled to the same break angle of the headstock so your nut can remain square....ok   hope this all helps   laters ukeman

Title: Re: drilling a tuner
Post by William_Thompson on Dec 7th, 2004 at 4:56pm
Awesome response, thank you! Wanna know how I know you drill on a fast speed? Brand new engraved Johnson resonator getting the upgrade to SG318s...the bit grabbed and shattered one of the holes. The ugly plastic piece was shot, too. I reglued all of the jigsaw puzzle-like pieces together and finished the drilling several days later.  I glued a beautiful piece of dark buffalo grained leather over the top, trimmed it and used a Magic Marker to dye the edge black. It looks better than the cheesy plastic, and the tone is not affected.

Because I want to save the Favilla logo, I shall add the
spacer to the back side of the uke.  Without dropping the holes closer to the headstock, the strings would probably not touch the nut.    I really would like to not add additional wood weight to the left end of the thing as well as the additional tuner weight.

I am surprised Asa doesn't just tell me to suck it up and buy the $35.00 tuners.   Can the SG318s be redrilled and cut off?

Title: Re: drilling a tuner
Post by ukeman on Dec 8th, 2004 at 10:44am
yo W.T.  If'n your headstock thickness is too thin you can always cut the sleeves of the Machine tuner inserts with a hacksaw or a dremmel with an abrasive wheel..if ya cut the shaft...would be kinda unsightly unless touch up chroming and some finesse file work is in your repetoire.....ok  sounds like a cool addition...I especially like your use of leather.ala majik marker faux bindings...ok  laters  ukeman

Title: Re: drilling a tuner
Post by william thompson on Dec 8th, 2004 at 6:35pm
AHA!!! :D Cut the outer barrel on the tuner. If the inner locking mechanism is then too long, also shorten it.  The post will then look like a telephone pole, but it can also be redrilled and cut off just below the indentation which is there on an unaltered tuner.   The shaft is not a hardened steel, so it does drill very easily. I did one last night.  Red jeweler's rough and a buffing pad on a Dremel or a bench grinder put on a high polish on the chrome, and Renewzit from the PX restores the ends on the black ones.     I think we have a winner!  Thank you for the brainstorming sessions.

I was ready to listen to someone say," Go sell those old Favillas and buy my _ _ _ _ _ _ that already has geared tuners and much better tone and action," but no one has done it yet.  One last chance, readers!

Title: Re: drilling a tuner
Post by ukeman on Jan 13th, 2005 at 10:41am
yo william...ther is no better feeling for me of reviving or modifying a piece of watever to suit your needs! Of course the feeling I'm talking about is when the brainstorming results in a mission accomplished. So as to that question or statement "Go sell those old Favilla's and buy my______that already has better tone and action" All's I gots to say is "forget about it!" Your mission is accomplished.    laters  ukeman

Title: Re: drilling a tuner
Post by william thompson on Jan 13th, 2005 at 2:31pm
I know some will say I must be a two fingered,tone deaf haole, but I have been playing on a nice early 40s Martin and my black pegged Favilla, and I do not notice a significant difference between tone, volume, entonation or action on the two. Perhaps Favilla is very under rated.  Honestly, I hate friction tuners on the Martin as much as on anything else I play!

Title: Re: drilling a tuner
Post by ukeman on Jun 9th, 2005 at 10:09am
Aloha all...a belated response in the event that anyone may want to redrill the shaft of a tuner for a project.

I am making a bass baritone 4 stringer using harp strings and needed to redrill the mini gotoh shafts a tad..ok  a bit more than a tad, larger to accomodate the new string diameters..1.05

For gotoh minis here's my solution:

scrap piece of 3/4 ply mine is 4"x4" square.
on upper corner, any corner actually measure in 1/2 from one side edge and 1/2" from the top edge. Find center and drill a 3/8" hole....yup just mounting the tuner into the hole.

stick in tuner...spin shaft till perpendicular. stick via clamp and glue a support wood scrap piece under the base of the inserted shaft and glue to ply and clamp!

Take to drill press and drill away....shaft will remain steady for easy drilling.

ps.  add a cone abrasive bit into your drill chuck, you can steal that from your Dremmel kit. and ream the newly drilled holes to smooth out the edges, no cut strings!

Alternate: Electric drill, correct bit, steady hand, and a confident attitude.....drill away!

whatever works!   laters all, ukeman

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