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Message started by Wood_Butcher on May 6th, 2008 at 5:36am

Title: Height for Cutting Binding
Post by Wood_Butcher on May 6th, 2008 at 5:36am
I have a question regarding how tall to cut the binding rabet.  Since the binding material is .25", would it make sense to add another .015" to that?  My thought is that this gives me a gauge to bevel the soundboard and back.  Would this cause problems at the heel cap and fretboard?  Your feedback is appreciated.

Mark

Title: Re: Height for Cutting Binding
Post by Matt Blacka on May 6th, 2008 at 12:56pm
Hi Mark,

When installing binding I cut the binding channel a little shorter than the height of the binding, then once the binding is glued in, it is scraped back flush with the soundboard, backboard, and sides. I think this is how most people do it, but I'm not 100% sure.

I once downloaded a pretty detailed binding instructional guide from the Stewart-Mcdonald website. I'm not sure if it's still available there, or if it covered this issue, but it may be worth a look.

Matt

Title: Re: Height for Cutting Binding
Post by Don_Orgeman on May 7th, 2008 at 12:41pm
Mark:

I agree with cutting the channel a little shy of the binding dimension and sanding it to fit.  When thinning the edges of the soundboard you have to leave the area along the fingerboard at close to the original thicknes.  Most of the edge thinning takes place below the sound hole.  I found that my top starts to taper in thickness starting at a line about equal to the 17th fret (with the 14th fret at the body).  I chose not to bind this uke because the joints between the sides and the top and back looked so good that I decided not to touch them and just enjoy the unbound look.  Also, the spanish heel makes binding a bit of a pain.

Don

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