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Ukulele finnish using linseed oil (Read 1831 times)
UkuHead
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Ukulele finnish using linseed oil
Nov 30th, 2003 at 2:24pm
 
Aloha uke pro's has anyone tried using linseed oil to finnish? I just read the new ukulele making book By, Denis Gilbert and he says he uses linseed oil cut 50 0/0 with mineral spirits and wet sands with that mixture starting with 300 and ending with 600 then letting it dry for how long I dont know it dosen't say? then after that he sprays it with 3 coats of lacquer then lets it dry then polishes it with turtle wax. I wanna try this will this work or if you used this method before I would like some info on you do yours.

Mahalo
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MattsUkes
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Re: Ukulele finnish using linseed oil
Reply #1 - Dec 3rd, 2003 at 6:49am
 
I've used similar finishing techniques on furniture.    Sanding in an oil based finish is 'supposed to' fill the pores.   It does help, but it is tough to get a really level finish as the sanding tends to pull the slurry out of the pores.

You need to leave the oil completely dry before puting on a lacquer finish.     Straight linseed oil takes a long long time to dry.  Boiled linseed is faster.  I used 4 coats of  WATCO and waited more than a week.

Using auto rubbing compound worked OK for me as a polish, however if you start with a finish that is not completely filled (that is, there are still some pores) the rubbing compound lodges in the pukas and you end up with a really ugly result.   Cry

  Matt  Smiley
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Ukeman
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Re: Ukulele finnish using linseed oil
Reply #2 - Dec 3rd, 2003 at 10:46am
 
aloha all....Guess the main thing is to like the finish you are trying to produce. Seems like with a lacquer finish you would want to get that final clear coat totally level and pore free to take advantage of the high gloss....this will require pore filling, sealing and lacquer coats and much sanding in between.

Using oil as a base finish and spraying over with lacquer is cool if your oil base finish coats are able to seal and fill your pores...along with the three coats of lacquer. Jes am in agreement with Matt that oils dry much slower and lacquer likes to shrink in time so you will not get a pore free surface unless the lacquer coats are thick.

I would prefer Tru-Oil over Linseed oil but you got to limit the amount of coats you rub in to no more than 2 a day....you can seal with tru-oil sealers and or pore fillers, or a combination of both and then apply tru-oil finish coats until you attain the level of finish you are seeking with fine, fine sanding twixt finish coats...some guys will coat 40 to 50 times...wipe on wipe off or rub on and rub out like french polishing with tru-oil.

For my own instruments I use lacquer since i'm most comfortable with the process. Yup I do use a vinyl sealer and I also pore fill...and my lacquer coats are in 3 4 coat sessions using Lawrence McFadden nitrocellulose lacquer and much sanding twixt sessions.....

Check out uke finishes and ask the owners what they used. If you like a certain finish this is the best way to approach it.Then experiment and try the process out yourself...laters    ukeman
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