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Top thickness (Read 7028 times)
John_Mayes
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Re: Top thickness
Reply #15 - Aug 31st, 2004 at 10:18pm
 
thanks for the comment.  That is, essentially what I do.  I actually can tell more from stiffness than tap tone, but both are very important.  But as we all know tops usually fall into certain parameters.  And that was what I was curious what others were doing...
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Ukeman
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Re: Top thickness
Reply #16 - Sep 20th, 2004 at 5:24pm
 
yo people..been remiss as of late...just busy with the Guild and my own ukes and classes yada yada yada...but thought I'd comment on this thicknessing thing....I'm able to use a thicker overall soundboard when using the Kasha/Schneider bracing plans...like .075 is cool...but I final thickness the box after assembly....mostly about 2" in from the edges around the entire perimeter front and back I thickness to about .060....checking mostly for flex. At overall thickness of .075 I can easyily level my plates and then taper the edges and check for flex.

I rough in the process described above and then i make my sideport hole....I use a oval copy of a diameter i feel is right via the computer...cut out a copy...locate it on the upper bout side and then trace the outline with a pencil....I cut out the puka by drilling (4)   1/4" pukas about 3/8th inch inside my oval outline and cut out the puka by connecting the holes with a keyhole zona saw. I then use a 3/4 in dowel wrapped with 80 grit and create a small oval ....I hang my uke at the headstock connection and tap the bridge location and measure tap tone and then I use a decibal reader and measure decibel levels......I then increase the oval by 1/8th inch more and do the same measuring process....I keep going until the decibels remain constant...the decibel level will increase going from small to larger and then stop or level off....guess then I am matching sideport size to air volumne content...whatever..its fun playing with gizmos...I try to keep the back plate and the soundboard at least a semitone apart...remember when the bridge is added on the taptone will be a tad higher than measured without a bridge. I would think the main thing is to do whatever well and the uke will respond in kind.....ha    laters  ukeman
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Dale Schroeder
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Re: Top thickness
Reply #17 - Nov 2nd, 2004 at 4:16pm
 
Got a question on the tentelonies, The ones I got from hana lima are a square shape.  The ones used in guitars and also some ukes are triangular.  Do the triangular ones  have less resistance to the top vibration? If thats true is it better to use them? Does it matter if you are doing binding?Undecided

Mahalo
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Ukeman
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Re: Top thickness
Reply #18 - Nov 5th, 2004 at 12:00pm
 
aloha dale...about kerf lining....i think of it as a necessary reinforcement between side and plates to keep sides to plates in place.
also when binding the kerf liners are a necesity to keep the side and plates from separating if you are using:
1. ultra thin sides
2. thickish bindings...example my rope binding is thicker than my side materials so I need the kerf liner backer.

I simply sand in an angle on my hana lima 'ia kerf liners via a sanding block....easy and quick to do and looks cool, reduces mass and still affords me enough wood reinforcement to bind away without fear of separation.

laters ukeman
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msrvfx
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Kasha Sound Holes
Reply #19 - Jan 21st, 2005 at 5:56pm
 
mike -
thanks again for such a detailed amount of information about the kasha building.  I am getting ready to make a cutaway Kasha tenor design with a redwood top, and I am considering doing either the sidehole/s alone or a combination of top soundhole plus one side soundhole.
I have not seen any pictures or descriptions of the double side sound holes, and would appreciate some info about the second hole location. Would the double hole work with a cutaway design, or should I stick with a single side hole, or go with the left upper bout soundboard hole with a side hole next to it?
Appreciate your feedback on this....and i will definitely be using your incremental sizing suggestion on the sound hole.

Thanks Mike.

Mark in Portland
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msrvfx
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Re: Top thickness
Reply #20 - Jan 22nd, 2005 at 6:44pm
 
???
Help With Big Red. I am getting ready to do a kasha tenor, and I am planning on using redwood. Can someone make an experieced suggestion on the thickness for redwood for the soundboard. I am guessing it should be a bit thicker.

Mahalo,

Mark
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msrvfx
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Re: Top thickness
Reply #21 - Jan 25th, 2005 at 11:55am
 
Forgot to add another question related to thickness.

I have an opportunity to pick up some pretty bookmatched tonewood that is already thickness sanded to 2.6mm.
Not glued up yet.   Pretty thin.????
This seems a bit thin from what I am reading for a "working thickness" before the glue up of the bookmatched pieces.
Is that too thin or pretty "iffy" due to the thinness?

Mark
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Dale Schroeder
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Re: Top thickness
Reply #22 - Jan 25th, 2005 at 4:54pm
 
I don't know about the redwood, I have not used it.  On the top thickness question, I think you should be OK.  I'm not great with metric but 2.6mm should be by my calculations just about one tenth of an inch (.1).  I started with my top at .09 inches.  I believe somewhere in this forum I read that ukeman said he typically starts at .08 and then sands the edges down to .06 to loosen up the top.  I think you are in pretty good shape in the range of .06 to .10 inches.

Dale
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Ukeman
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Re: Top thickness
Reply #23 - Jan 28th, 2005 at 12:02pm
 
aloha all...still fussing with proper widths eh! Actually there is no definite working thickness as all plates are different in species and stiffness. Each top will deflect differently dependent on thickness, and your subsequent bracings and tone bars.

My rule is to work thicker than normal since its easy to remove but no amount of watering will get them thin flimsy plates to grow.

I join at any where from 1 to 2.5 millimeters..an eighth to 3/16ths.

I install me soundboard inlays, designs or rosettes after the plates are jointed, and glued and semi leveled or level. I inlay a tad deep...do not want to go through the hassle of sanding through a thin veneer while finish sanding a completed uke boix in the later stages of construction!

I level my inlays via the Performax or whatever. And I now thickness to working thickness from the opposite side of these plates prior to bracework and patches.

My working thicknesses are between .075 to .090  depending on how stiff da materials feel and how the tap tone quality vibrates.

When my uke is boxed I taper thickness the entire uke outline on both surfaces starting about 2" in from the uke outline to where the showing edges get down to .065 to .70...somtimes even thinner, sometimes a tad thicker....depends on flex. Good time to create sideports or soundholes if you haven't....you can hear how the hole size relates to thicknesses and tap tones or flex...jes go slow and tap plenty.

hope this helps   laters ukeman
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Ukeman
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Re: Top thickness
Reply #24 - Sep 14th, 2005 at 2:00pm
 
hey guys, regarding tentalone shapes, hanalima is now suppying the tentalnes with sanded beveld profile...a nice touch...you can hand bevel your existing square ones with a sanding block....sands really fast and easy and if you like you can even round out the beveled profile....ukeman
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