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Cutaway spanish heel design (Read 3655 times)
rogercarter
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Cutaway spanish heel design
Jul 11th, 2004 at 7:51am
 
Hi,

I have got the idea of the spanish heel construction from the shop tips on the site. My question is, how do you make a single cutaway uke with spanish heel? Where do you cut the slot on the cutaway side of the heel? Or do you have to use another method to join the neck to body.

Thanks, Roger.
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Roger Carter&&roger@roger-carter.co.uk
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hapakid
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Re: Cutaway spanish heel design
Reply #1 - Jul 11th, 2004 at 3:19pm
 
Hi Roger,
I'm just a beginner, but I've built two spanish heel cutaways which I cobbled together. On both of them, I left the cutaway side flat, not tapered down to the heel cap, and than brought the cutaway side up and glued it flat against the side of the heel. 
Here's a photo during building:
...
The uke in the photo isn't all that pretty, but like all my ukes, it was a good learning process.
Jesse Tinsley

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Roger Carter
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Re: Cutaway spanish heel design
Reply #2 - Jul 11th, 2004 at 10:21pm
 
Jesse,

That's a really useful picture. I had guessed i need to do something like that but couldn't visualise how it would look.

Roger
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Ukeman
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Re: Cutaway spanish heel design
Reply #3 - Jul 12th, 2004 at 2:47pm
 
aloha roger:

If ya want to keep the delicate design of a typical heel and still produce a cutaway you would proceed to slot your neck like a typical spanish construction method...the catch is that the thickness of the neck rearward of the slots needs to be measured so that it will correspond to the taper and width size of your finished fingerboard at the body joint. Draw the fingerboard finish taper lines onto the top of your spanish neck. Now minus the thickness of the cutaway rib and reduce the width of the neck rearward of the slots by the same amount as the thickness of the cutaway rib and your recently drawn finished fingerboard outline. This will make your ribs on the same plane as the fingerboard width after installing the cutaway...a real bummer if the cutaway thickness is mo big than the neck and fingerboard's  finished thickness.
The rib joint is a 45 to a 45...all meeting at the corner of your neck slot. The piece that goes perpendicular into the neck slot is the cut off of your bent cutaway rib so that all grain lines match at the 45 corner.

All of this fussiness is eliminated if your heel shape is like the one bruddah Jesse depicted in his photos.The rib of the cutaway will simply butt into the full heel width .

I guess many ways to the same path...jes a bit different  Ha!     laters ukeman
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journal
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Re: Cutaway spanish heel design
Reply #4 - Sep 5th, 2005 at 11:14am
 
Here's my solution to the problem.  I've made two ukes like this but have decided that it's just cosmetic because you can reach all the frets without it.  It is a nice depature, however, from the standard body cutaway that you always see.

...
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konacat
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Re: Cutaway spanish heel design
Reply #5 - Sep 8th, 2005 at 2:37pm
 
Journal,

What I find interesting is your sound pickup system. I don’t know squat about the electronics but this sure seems like an easy and economical method. My only concern is the wiring. Is the wiring going to a battery and if so how would you be able to replace the battery when complete? If the system is passive then does the wiring go to some sort of pot control device on the sound board?

Mahalo

Philip
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Txdd1
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Re: Cutaway spanish heel design
Reply #6 - Sep 13th, 2005 at 3:24am
 
Journal,

That looks great, and great workmanship. Very tidy and clean! Great stuff. Those are the kind of photos that really make me want to get busy in the shop!

What kind of system is that in the picture. Obviously active by the presence of the battery. You said you've built 2 of these? Did the other have the same electronics? How is the sound? Have you used any other systems, and if so how do they compare?

I am currently building a concert that I am considering putting a pickup of some sort into, but am having a hard time sorting through the pros and cons of different systems. Also cost, and how the costly systems compare to the cheaper ones. Obviously, like other things in life, you usually get what you pay for. But on the same hand I don't want to spend more than I have to if I can get good results with something else. Same ole argument I suppose.

Any way, great looking work. Do you have pics of the completed instrument?

Thanks,
Todd
"The Uker of OZ"
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