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resaw wood (Read 1467 times)
obmissy
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resaw wood
Feb 2nd, 2005 at 6:36pm
 
I'm just almost pau with building my first 'ukulele...i've name her Ku'u Ho'onanea Le'a.  I'd like to start building another with some mahogany I have on hand.  I've never resawn  4/4 wood before and am wondering how to build a good fence/guide.  I have searched on the internet and it seems as though the single point fence/guide is the way to go ... but i'd like to hear from those with experience.
Thanks
Lori
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StringDoc
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so many ukes to build...so
little time

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Re: resaw wood
Reply #1 - Feb 3rd, 2005 at 4:03pm
 
Well,
I thought by now there would be at least a few responces to your question. I am sure more advice will follow....

This is really low tech but I got the idea from Don Musser who has been building guitars since the 70's and is (was) also a wood dealer in Colorado. Don cut his wood on an old Delta with a lift kit and a bigger moter, geared down. His fence was a big block of wood that he clamped to the table of his bandsaw. I don't remember exactly how he clamped it but later I made my own version of it. It consists of a 1 in hardwood board that sits on the table. I glued and screwed an 1 3/4 thick wood fence to the 1 in board making sort of an L shape, only turn around the L and you will have a mental picture of what I am talking about. A metal bracket could be used to give it more stability if you lean on the fence. I clamp the bottom L to the table then adjust the table to match the fence so that it cuts an even board. I of course cut a little into the board I am cutting and check for thickness and straitness of the cut. The other thing to consider is the angle of the fence compared to the blade. I usually eye ball the angle of the blade as it rides on the wheel of the bandsaw and try to line up the fence with it. This may be a confusing part of the description and may not make much sence until you get a little experience resawing your own wood! It is not terribly critical as long as the fence is pretty straight with the cutting line from front to back of your saw. I get my saw blades from the sanding catalog. They are high quality blades for a fraction of the cost of other suppliers. 3/8 to 1/2 is a good width to use.

Nathan
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Ukeman
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Re: resaw wood
Reply #2 - Feb 4th, 2005 at 1:19pm
 
yo lori..
ah as we delve deeper into the waters! A good fence is a one point system...mainthing you adjust for the drift in the cut...check this out! Take a scrap 1x 3 or 4  oh about a foot or mo long and strike a line on one edge down the length...now adjust your blade depth and try free cut the 1x in half, on edge following your scribed line...stop about half way through the length of your piece and check the orientation of the piece to your table surface...most likely you will be cutting at an angle to the blade and not parallel..you can see the saw dust outlining your cutting angle....now finish up your rip. What you saw is the drift of your bandsaw cut or lead. With a one point resaw system you can adjust for lead or drift when advancing your piece through the length of it's cut. You can always notate the drift on your test cut and clamp a fence at the same angle and then proceed with resawing.

So best rules to follow:
make sure your band saw is setup good...wheels (upper and lower) are in plumb alignment.Blade is tracking good.

make sure that your tension is cool and your table is square to your blade, and you get the correct width of blade for the job...blade too thin have tendency to wander!

make sure your bearings or blade guides are adjusted and your blade got the proper support and guide it needs. Blade is sharp.

your piece to be ripped is nintety to the table and parallel to the blade. I mean one edge and one surface of the piece to be resawn is true!

Den test cut by eye and go for it. Actually if your setup is cutting square and true you an eyeball a rip cut to a scribed line pretty accurately and certainly enough for future Performax sanding duties!

My fence is a homemade setup I stole from an old Shop Notes Magazine..the fence pivots in a slot that allows me to change the angle of the fence to match any drift in my cut.

Anyhow, have fun and make dust!   laters ukeman

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Ukeman
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Re: resaw wood
Reply #3 - Mar 14th, 2005 at 1:49pm
 
Aloha all! Been diggin around the OPS (other peoples shops) and am happy to report a variety of devices are employed for the re-sawing procedure!

The one point method is popular whereby a 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 on edge is cut so that one end is pointed and the tip is rounded and made both vertical and perpendicular to the bandsaw table. This  one point fence is clamped to the table just a tad behind the tip of the blade at the desired width of cut.To rip, you draw a line on your piece the desired width and along the entire length of the piece. Slowly feed the piece into the blade and use the one point fence to maintain the desired thickness of cut. The piece can be freely moved left or right while being ripped to allow for the different tendencies of the piece to drift.

Another  version of the one point method can be purchased at your local Wood craft store. It uses a curved aluminum piece that you can attach to your fence with provided hardware. The apex of the curve is located just a smidgeon behind the cutting blade, according to directions and the piece to be cut is ripped in the same way as the one point system.

Other shops just use a 1 x fence set parallel and perpendicular to the blade exactly like using a table saw fence, and simply resaw away, with no allowance for drift or angle of approach.

The by eye method works for a few shop owners as well. Strike a guide line on the piece to be ripped...square it to the blade and cut via eyeball. This methods actually works quite well.

A modified one point system uses a pair of roller bearings that ride on the top and bottom of the fence end like a pair of doweled side clamps. The ripped piece is guided with these two bearing and makes the rip travel very smooth. I used a pair of urethane roller blade skate wheels for a while employing the same principle of the bearings jig and it worked rather nice.

Anyone out there got another rip system? Post it here!  laters  ukeman
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Ukeman
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Re: resaw wood
Reply #4 - Jul 26th, 2005 at 10:59am
 
Hey all....here's a great example of why you all should be members of the 'Ukulele Guild of Hawaii: In last month's newsletter Bob Gleason of Pegasus Guitars and 'Ukuleles has included an article on resawing tips!
He too specifically points out that bandsaw drift has to be accounted for prior to resawing no matter what rip system you use. In a nutshell Bob says with a sample piece of material a bit long like at least 16"...draw a parallel line from one edge of this piece  and rip by eye following one side of this line, halfway through the cut...stop  and check the angle of the sample piece in relation to the blade and table....the angle that the piece is oriented is the amount and direction of bandsaw drift....adjust your fence to this angle..and resawing will go a bit easier.   good luck    later Ukeman

ps  Join the 'Ukulele Guild of Hawaii
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