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Joining timber for a uke back (Read 2267 times)
bk
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Joining timber for a uke back
Mar 7th, 2007 at 9:48pm
 
Hi,
I haven't got wide enough timber to make my uke back so I have cut out two halves and now want to join them together to make the back.
What is the best / strongest join, a butt join or should I cut a slight angle on each face and join them that way, I have some Franklins hide glue has anyone used it? is it any good for uke applications. It is made by titebond
cheers
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konacat
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Re: Joining timber for a uke back
Reply #1 - Mar 8th, 2007 at 8:52am
 
BK,

The reports from the Official Luthiers Forum about the Liquid Hide Glue have all been bad. At best they say you may be able to use it on a non stressed area. Many of the members have reported times that is doesn’t harden up and at least one report of joint failure from a professional builder. The consensus is that the things that are done to the hide glue to allow it to be liquid defeats the desired properties of mixed, heated hide glue. Hide glue is very sensitive to moisture and heat so it’s also not a good idea if you live in a warm or humid area. Original titebond will work just fine.

No problem with the two piece back since most tops and backs are two pieces anyway. While a scarf joint might be slightly stronger jointed plates are usually done as a butt joint. If your halves are cut from the same piece of wood then they are most likely book matched (take the 2 pieces as cut and open them like a book then grain or pattern where meet should match). Make sure the jointing edge is straight. You can fine tune the joint by sanding two halves together on a very flat surface. Be sure to candle the halves (hold together with a light source behind) until no light can be seen. Then just glue up...

Philip
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bk
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Re: Joining timber for a uke back
Reply #2 - Mar 8th, 2007 at 4:04pm
 
Thanks Philip,
I appreciate the reply and will take onboard your answers
Cheers
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Ukeman
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Re: Joining timber for a uke back
Reply #3 - Mar 17th, 2007 at 6:35pm
 
aloha all....jes a bit of a reminder when joining book matched halves please remember to reenforce the glued joint line with a cross grained graft piece on the inside of the halves...if jointed line is exposed anywhere...add a graft. On back board pieces graft goes twixt horizontal brace bars all along center joint. On soundboards depending on how your tone bars are placed you may not have any exposed centerline...or if you are a Kasha builder or a latticed braced cohort...where ever the center line is exposed...a graft please! Rule of thumb..whatever the material content of your bracings are, the graft piece is out of the same material..but cross grain in direction...laters  ukeman
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bk
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Re: Joining timber for a uke back
Reply #4 - Mar 17th, 2007 at 9:08pm
 
Thanks ukeman
have been reading Robert Benedetto's Book "making an archtop guitar" and he doesnt reenforce that seam is that because the back is thicker? he seems to think it's stronger without the extra support. I'm new at this so any comments taken on board
Ta
BK
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plogen
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Re: Joining timber for a uke back
Reply #5 - Dec 27th, 2007 at 1:48am
 

How about glueing smaller pieces together to make sound- and backboard. I have some beutiful pieces of wood that are not quite wide enough. Could i make my boards with 2 or 3 joints? Will this affect the sound of the uke dramatically?

Anders
in Sweden
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konacat
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Re: Joining timber for a uke back
Reply #6 - Dec 29th, 2007 at 1:44pm
 
Anders,

It would not be a problem. There are more multi piece tops out there in the guitar world them people know. Torres has used this method often to take advantage of good wood. Martin, Gibson, and Ovation have used multi-piece tops and their are probably others that we don't know about. Martin has used 3 and 4 piece tops on guitars so there should be no problem on the ukulele.  Just match the wood to look and blend the best and joint well.   Have fun!

Philip
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