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Rope Binding specs (Read 4914 times)
Quine
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Rope Binding specs
Dec 22nd, 2008 at 4:49am
 
Hi all.  I'm attempting to make some rope binding for my next project.  I could use some aesthetic hints on making it look right
How long are the segments and what angle should I cut??  Maybe 1/4" per segment and 45 degree angle cut?  Should I have longer segments or different angle?
Any suggestions on what looks right would be great.
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unkabob
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Re: Rope Binding specs
Reply #1 - Dec 22nd, 2008 at 6:35am
 
Quine:
Somewhere on this board is a long post on rope binding. You will have to search titles to find it.

That stuff is too complicated for me. I finally put dots on this fretboard.

Bob
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Wood_Butcher
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Re: Rope Binding specs
Reply #2 - Dec 22nd, 2008 at 8:29am
 
Quine,

Hope this link works for you.

Mark

http://uketalk.com/luthier-tutorials/rope-binding.htm
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Thanks, Mike and Asa!
 
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Don_Orgeman
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Re: Rope Binding specs
Reply #3 - Dec 22nd, 2008 at 10:38am
 
Quine:

If you don't see a reply to this post from obmissy- in the near future, send her a private message.  I believe she has used rope binding in the past and does really nice work.

Don
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obmissy-
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Re: Rope Binding specs
Reply #4 - Jan 9th, 2009 at 5:46pm
 
Thanks for the vote of confidence.  I did make rope binding ala Mike Chock.  I did it just so I could say I did it once.  It really isn't that hard and liked the results very well.  I used scraps from my scrap bin in my shop.  I stacked cherry, walnut, mahogany, maple and glued them together.  I felt random widths and a random pattern would look the most traditional.  I made the stack about 10 inches.  After the glue was set, I squared the stack on the table saw.  I cut strips from the squared stack at a 45 degree angle.  When you install the binding onto the uke one surface will look and angled and the other surface will not.  After the binding is installed you have to really "round" the edge and then the angle on both surfaces really pops.
Hope this helps.
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lefty
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Re: Rope Binding specs
Reply #5 - Jan 13th, 2009 at 3:18pm
 
Obmissy,
  I want to put some rope binding on my next uke.  What glue did you use to assemble the binding and did you have any trouble with it coming apart when you bent it?

Oh, and did you bend it with a bending iron or a form with lightbulbs,heating blanket?

Thanks,

Lefty
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obmissy-
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Re: Rope Binding specs
Reply #6 - Jan 13th, 2009 at 3:38pm
 
I used Original Titebond; the one with the red cap.  It glued up very well.  I bent the binding on my sidebending jig with a heatblanket.  If you use too much water the binding will come apart a lot.  Very little to no water will still bend the binding.  If the binding cracks or breaks just keep bending.  If there are one or two breaks in the binding after it is bent, when you install it on your uke and glue and tape it when it is all finished you will not see the breaks especially if it breaks where two pieces of wood join.
I tried bending it on a bending iron also.  Much harder for me.  When I bent it on the bending jig with the heat blanket, the piece of copper I use over the top as a sort of compression blanket helped keep it together.  It also helped keep the bend consistent where it broke so I could line it up when I was installing it.
Remember after you install it the binding will look angled on one plane and flat on the other plane.  Make sure you really round over the edge.  After the edge is rounded over both plains will look like they were cut on an angle.
Good look with the rope binding.  it is kind of fun to do and is a great way to use up pieces of scrap that you just can't throw away Smiley.
Post pics if you can.  I'd love to see what you are creating.
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Quine
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Re: Rope Binding specs
Reply #7 - Jan 14th, 2009 at 6:34am
 
I'll post some photos, but it will be a while before I get to that stage.

Bending tip....
I've found using a clothes iron is great for herringbone and rope type bindings.  After bending to the basic shape....use the iron to touch up any problem areas.  Its also good to apply it on the uke hot to get a really tight fit.  Use an old iron incase some glue sticks to it.
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lefty
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Re: Rope Binding specs
Reply #8 - Jan 14th, 2009 at 6:55am
 
Thanks obmissy,
I have heard that DAP® Weldwood® Plastic Resin Glue can be used also but I bet that would make a heck of a mess.

Quine,
I have also heard that a hair curling iron can be used to refine the bends in the binding also.  Like you it will be a while before I get to that stage but when I do I will post some photos.

Lefty
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Wood_Butcher
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Re: Rope Binding specs
Reply #9 - Jan 14th, 2009 at 9:27am
 
Hi Lefty,

I read in a post another forum about using Titebond III for glueing bindings together.  This allows you to pre-bend them using heat/ steam on your side bending form without them coming apart before you glue them onto your instrument.

Mark
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Thanks, Mike and Asa!
 
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Ukeman
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Re: Rope Binding specs
Reply #10 - Jan 20th, 2009 at 8:18am
 
aloaha all!
Here is a rope binding tip....When making rope binding and at the stage after diagonally joining your strips and cutting them to appropriate thickness.....prior to stripping to width...add a colored veneer to one side of the bindings prior to stripping...this will produce a purflin effect.And greatly strengthen your rope for easier bending.The veneer on one side of the rope gives a great visual seperation effect and makes prebending rope bindings a snap..no breakage and whole strips bent to your uke shape on your side bender.   laters ukeman
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