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Maple is a proper pain to work with (Read 2921 times)
unkabob
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Maple is a proper pain to work with
Sep 2nd, 2009 at 4:49pm
 
Does anyone have the secret to cutting and thicknessing maple.

The last few days I have been cutting and sanding maple. The cuts came out messy with gouges so I changed from 36 teeth to 60 teeth. Now the cuts are coming out chared. I accept that my saw is not great but I have never had this kind of trouble with mahogany.

Thickness sanding has taken most of two days on fairly good 80 grit paper. Should I be running faster or slower speed? My motor is marginal at a third of a horse but it has worked well enough before. The drum speed is 1300 FPM.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Bob Cry
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lefty
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Re: Maple is a proper pain to work with
Reply #1 - Oct 31st, 2009 at 5:55pm
 
Hi Bob,
  Maple is really hard dense wood.  How sharp is your blade?  Even if you are getting good results with the mahogany, if the blade isn't sharp it's gonna burn and or chip the maple.  If the blade is cutting o.k. you might try to increase your feed rate a bit and once you start the cut try not to stop.  Going too slow or stopping will also cause burning.
Lefty
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unkabob
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Re: Maple is a proper pain to work with
Reply #2 - Nov 1st, 2009 at 2:48pm
 
Lefty:
Everything that you say makes sense, now. My first try was a major trial with lots of sanding of scorched spots.

I finished the truoil treatment last night and today I started adding the hardware. The screws that came with my tuners are so-so at best. I stripped a couple heads but eventually got them in. I will pickup some more screws this week( same size better quality).

The bending went very well. The back and sides are really solid and sand up smooth.

I tried to stain the maple as sanded but it came out as little dark specks. It appears to be related to the grain structure . I will have to do more test panels next time.

bob
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lefty
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Re: Maple is a proper pain to work with
Reply #3 - Nov 1st, 2009 at 7:35pm
 
Bob,
One thing you can do if you have enough material to start with is to cut it about 1/8" over width and then cut it again at the desired width.  That might reduce the burning.  But, a sharp blase and some power to spin it makes a lot of difference.

Lefty
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unkabob
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Re: Maple is a proper pain to work with
Reply #4 - Nov 2nd, 2009 at 6:41am
 
Lefty:
Next time I will start with a new blade.
My next project will be mahogany and spruce with Kasha bracing. It should have a smooth sound.

Bob
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